Michael Persiano (11-5-95) - From your photo, I could not tell if this is a Juniperus Procumbens Nana, Shimpaku, etc. If this is to be a cascading juniper, then the cascade needs to be more strongly defined. I believe this can be achieved by wiring the trees branches into shelves of growth. The top of the tree in particular appears to be in conflict with the design of the tree, so would wire this down also. The tree appears to be in need of additional foliar growth, so here too I would begin an aggressive feeding program. In the spring, pinch back buds to stimulate foliar density. Lastly, you might consider using some heavy wire to create a sinuous form for the tree's cascading line (trunk).

David Waldo (11-10-95) - This is a tough one. It is easy to suggest drastic steps but harder to follow through. The roots on this tree look like they are very interesting. Having the two strong truncks on the tree is distracting. Also, the apex going straight up is out of sync with the flow of the trunks. The drastic suggestion would be to remove one of the trunks. If the back trunk is removed you will have a very nicely defined cascade which will look like its roots are strugling to cling to the pot. If the front trunk is removed you will have a nice semi-cascade with a thick trunk. The not so drastic suggestion would be to turn the tree to the right more, work on the foliage for the cascade and play down the other trunk, using it to just give depth.

Mike Moore (11-11-95) - First, I kind of like it. Granted, it is somewhat off balanced, but it has the basics. Since both of these trunks are suitable, why chop either? What do you think about wiring them together, closing the nearly 90 degree down to say 35? Next year, when they are groing closer along the same parallel, one trunk could be chosen to lead, one to follow. The leader is wired down drastically, near vertical, the follower less so, and kept pruned back.

Another idea, if they can be brought together close enough, would be to fuse the bases together, then sending one branch directly to the canyon floor, the other at a more modest decline. Either way, the end result is a multi tiered cascade. Oh, and while you are at it, please to it a favor and remove the branch that sticks straight up. Thanks. If nothing else, wire one of these branches down more drastic.

Michael Johnson (3-11-96) - This tree looks like shimpaku to me, judging by the bark color and the fact that the branch tips are trying to grow upward.

I'd suggest wiring all the branch tips down. The branch at the tip of the cascade especially should be wired so that it continues the cascading line, rather than suddenly turning up at the end. The branch going off to the right at the top of the tree should be removed or reduced. Then the pot should be tipped onto the side opposite the cascade, so that the tip of the cascade is the highest point on the tree. This will cause the tree to exercise its apical dominance by putting strength into the cascade branch, rather than trying to grow the top and letting the cascade weaken, which is what it would otherwise do. The pot can be tipped back up for watering, but should be on its side the rest of the time (some moss would help to keep the soil from spilling out). This is good advice for any apically dominant tree that is being forced into a cascade shape. On the other hand, naturally prostrate trees (such as Juniperus procumbens nana) should be kept upright so that the tree, which wants to grow out and down, will put its strength into the cascade.

This would also eliminate your squirrel problem, since the cascade would no longer be dangling down to tempt them.